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It ended on a hilltop that overlooked cornfields and had a sweeping view down to the sea. “I didn’t realize it would get dark so soon,” said Martha.

We settled on a visit to a tiny general store, Kiosco Los Sobrinos, where the owner showed us a traditional embroidered dress she was making and sold me a glass bottle of Canada Dry ginger ale for 35 cents.

They assigned me to one of the tamer cows (named Muñeca, or doll) and watched as I extracted a tiny fraction of a liter.

My parents contented themselves taking photos of their son’s incompetence; I learned that my dad had milked cows one summer in upstate New York, circa 1940, and we all learned how the business worked in Azuero: Farmers leave the full tanks by the side of the road, and companies send trucks around to take the milk.

” she asked with utter nonchalance, then handed me the 4month-old with scrunched up lips and golden stud earrings.

“Her name is Hannah,” she continued in the choppy Caribbean-style Spanish of the country.

But for a visitor just off a five-hour nonstop from New York, it was a bewilderingly tender moment.“Me permite?

Carlos used to sell his milk to Quesos Lourdes, a local company which made the fresh yogurt we would later have at breakfast, but now sold to Nestlé.

That kind of detail — that a multinational corporation like Nestlé gets its milk from cows like Carlos’s — is enough to fascinate me, so I was happy to hear my father enjoyed it as well.

An added bonus: It’s the driest part of the country, which we’d be visiting during the rainy season. My ticket was more expensive, the first leg of a longer trip. 7 column for more.)The Azuero, a squarish 3,000 square miles of land that juts out into the Pacific from the southern coast, about four hours from Panama City, is perhaps best known for a town called Pedasí.

An allegedly adorable spot with a colonial center, I read it was becoming popular among American retirees, and saw there is even a place called the Bakery, whose sign boasts “artisanal bread”; its muffins and pepperoni pizza get strong reviews on Trip Advisor. Instead, we checked into Hostel Kimmell, a bed-and-breakfast in the lazy little town of Santo Domingo.